The Greatest Treasure Hunts Start in Dorset

This autumn we’re celebrating artists and artisans who have been ‘Inspired by Dorset’. Gold Hill Museum is one of 12 across the county hosting special creative hands-on activities or celebrating artworks and local artists. Shaftesbury was the cradle of the Dorset Button cottage industry, founded in 1622 by Abraham Case. (You can read about Four Hundred Years of Dorset Buttons by clicking here ) Our volunteers are passionate about making Dorset Buttons and you can join them in free, drop-in Button Making Workshops on Monday 28 October or Friday 01 November. On both days the workshops run from 11a.m. to 1p.m. and 2p.m. to 4p.m. These are open to all from the age of 8. Children must be accompanied.

Dorset Button Mice
Basil, Lavender, Poppy, Rocket, Rosemary, and Snowdrop are our Dorset Button Mice; they are hiding in six different display cases in various rooms in Gold Hill Museum, waiting to be discovered by visitors of all ages.

Kits for making Dorset Buttons at home are on sale in the Museum Shop.

Whether you want to discover more about Alfred Stevens, ‘the Michelangelo of Great Britain’, Corfe Castle based artist Amy Krauss who created a beautiful miniature artwork for Queen Mary’s dolls house in Windsor Castle or the 400 year-old cottage industry of Dorset Button making, there’s plenty of amazing stories to discover this October and plenty of fun, hands on experiences to get involved with. There’s something for all ages and all interests. Follow in the footsteps of Dame Elisabeth Frink and become a ‘Wire Warrior’ and have a go at making your own costume armour, make a hobbyhorse, miniature masterpiece, origami lion or even have a go at stone carving on Portland! To start planning your inspirational autumn days out head to: www.visit-dorset.com/inspired-by-dorset/ and look out for posts on Visit Dorset’s Facebook and Instagram accounts.

Visit Dorset, Dorset Council’s tourism team is working with the Dorset Museums Association and Wimborne based agency, Fathom, to deliver this Shared Prosperity Government Funded campaign which aims to encourage local residents and visitors to explore Dorset’s amazing range of museums this October.

Was Biggles in Real Life a Dorset Farmer?

At 2.30p.m. on Tuesday 05 November at Gold Hill Museum Tony Otton will give an illustrated talk on the remarkable career of aviation pioneer Louis Strange, born on the family farm at Spetisbury, Dorset, in 1891. The first powered flight in Britain was achieved in 1908 by the American Samuel Cody. Louis Strange saw the first Bournemouth Air Show in 1910, where Charles Rolls, co-founder with Henry Royce of Rolls Royce Ltd, crashed and was killed. Undeterred, Strange took his first flight in 1911 as the passenger of exhibition pilot Lewis Turner, who lived at Sturminster Newton but was best known for stirring flying displays at Hendon. Having been kicked by an unruly ewe in July 1913, and rendered temporarily unfit for farm work, Strange sought out Turner at Hendon, determined to learn to fly. By the end of 1913 Strange was established as an exhibition flier, race winner, and instructor. In 1914 he transferred from the Dorset Yeomanry to the infant Royal Flying Corps, and trained on military aircraft – such as they were – at the Central Flying School on Salisbury Plain. In August 1914 he was one of 37 pilots who left for France in a motley collection of under-powered aircraft, with a brief to gather intelligence on the enemy’s movements. This was a hazardous pursuit, with slow and level flight often provoking a hail of friendly fire. Strange and his colleagues, lacking an effective playbook, began to write their own, as you can read in an earlier blog. By August 1915 Strange was the last of the original 37 still in France, and a wise C.O. ensured that he was posted to Home Establishment, where his talents and experience could be employed in improving the quality of training and thus the longevity of new pilots. He didn’t return permanently to France, in a much more exalted role, until July 1918.

The first collection of stories about pilot James Bigglesworth was published by WE Johns in 1932. This is the cover of the Red Fox edition from 2003 (illustration by David Frankland)

Captain W.E. Johns might have been remembered as the RAF Recruiting Officer who in 1922 rejected the thinly disguised Lawrence of Arabia, who presented himself as T.E. Shaw. When “Shaw” came back with an official letter from the Air Ministry, Johns referred the weedy specimen as a special case to the medical officer, who also declined to accept “Shaw.” By the winter of 1928/29 Aircraftsman Shaw had been posted to RAF Miramshah in British India, where his presence complicated the first mass evacuation by air from Afghanistan.

Johns states in his Foreword that Biggles was a fictitious character, yet he could have been found in any RFC mess during those great days of 1917 and 1918 when … air duelling was a fine art … he represents the spirit of the RFC – daring and deadly when in the air, devil-may-care and debonair on the ground. By the last chapter Biggles has been promoted Major to command 319 Squadron, and crash-lands behind German lines, only to discover that an Armistice has been signed half an hour earlier. It’s a great ending but one that would have to be forgotten about as Johns began writing another 90 or so Biggles books, which ultimately also embraced the inter-war period, the Battle of Britain, and the beginning of the Cold War. Biggles is said to have been born in India in 1899, which makes him just about old enough to have flown a Sopwith Camel and young enough to have been a Squadron Leader in 1940.

Restored Sopwith Camel at the Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia. Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International Licence

The Sopwith F1 earned the nickname “Camel” because of the hump over its forward-facing twin Vickers machine guns, synchronised to avoid hitting the propeller. It was introduced in 1917 when Louis Strange was Assistant Commandant at the Central Flying School. In the hands of an experienced pilot it was a formidable piece of kit, but too many novices lost control, and their lives. In spite of the care we took, Strange wrote, Camels continually spun down out of control when flew [sic] by pupils on their first solos. At length, with the assistance of Lieut Morgan, who managed our workshops, I took the main tank out of several Camels and replaced [them] with a smaller one, which enabled us to fit in dual control.

Both Strange and Biggles have breaks from their RAF service between the Wars. Strange retired on medical grounds in 1921 while according to Hilary Mantel Biggles was a charter pilot with a side-line in working for MI6. After going back to farming, in the 30s Strange became involved in the running of commercial airlines. In 1939 he joined the RAF Volunteer Reserve as a humble Pilot Officer; by 1944 he was helping to plan the execution of the D Day Campaign, and back in France. His story is (pardon the pun) stranger than fiction.

Tony’s fascinating talk is free to S&DHS members. Seats should be available to non-members from 2.20p.m. on payment of £5 at the door.

“Commanding Scenery” and “Very Fine Air for the Restoration of Health”

“Welcome to Shaftesbury” is our final temporary exhibition of the season, showcasing a range of local printed tourist guides selected by our volunteer archives team and spanning nearly a century. Magnificent views to north, south, and west from Shaftesbury’s hilltop location are extolled by all the writers. (We are still doing it, with the benefit of drone photography, in the promotional video on our Home Page.) The earlier publicists tend to be equally interested in stressing the merits of Shaftesbury as a health resort, a kind of mini-Switzerland for the tubercular.

Shaftesbury enjoys breath-taking views into three Counties, and highly breathable fresh air according to the writers of early tourist guides. (Gold Hill Museum Guide)

The earliest tourists would be medieval pilgrims, attracted to the shrine of St Edward the Martyr (d.978) at Shaftesbury Abbey. While many might have been motivated by the prospect of remission of sins and shortening of time spent in Purgatory, others would also have hoped for miraculous cures from the plethora of diseases rife at the time. Roger Mason, writer of the RH Guide above, states that The pilgrims visiting Edward’s shrine were so numerous … they caused hygiene problems, so they were housed in an area with a sloping floor, which could be easily sluiced out each morning.

One of the scourges of 19th century Britain was tuberculosis of the lungs. Records show that between 1851 and 1910 there were about 4 million deaths from TB in England and Wales. Robert Koch, the German scientist who demonstrated in 1882 that the disease was caused by infection from a bacterium, reckoned that TB was responsible for one-seventh of human mortality. Knowing the cause was not the same, however, as being able to prevent or cure the disease. Neither was feasible in Britain until widespread adoption of the BCG vaccination and availability of the antibiotic Streptomycin in the 1950s.

Victorian treatments varied from the optimistic: vinegar massages and inhaling turpentine fumes or hem- lock; to the practical, but expensive: isolation in a plush Swiss sanatorium with plenty of bed-rest, good food, and fresh air. If altitude accompanied the fresh air, all the better, as the German physician Hermann Brehmer, returning from the Himalayas in 1854, claimed to be cured of TB. Brehmer initiated a trend by establishing a sanatorium 650 metres above sea level. Shaftesbury, at a more modest 215 metres, still warranted an entry in the the 1890s New Illustrated Guide to some of the Picturesque Health and Holiday Resorts on the Midland Railway System. (Change at Templecombe if travelling from the Midlands and the North.) South-Western Railways advised that Passengers taking tourist tickets to the West of England will be allowed to break the journey at Semley Station … in order to visit the town of Shaftesbury, two miles distant, situate about 780 feet above the level of the sea, recommended by medical men as a health resort for persons requiring bracing air, and commanding landscape views that for extent and grandeur are scarcely surpassed in the kingdom.

Coombe House Hotel (currently a School for pupils with Special Educational Needs) was still claiming to be a good Health resort in the 1930s.

By the 1930s hoteliers advertising (above) in the Shaftesbury Tourist Guides had to be more cognisant of the expectations of travellers who might arrive by private motor car. The beneficial, health-giving climate was still a selling point. Coombe House’s “Magnificent Ballroom” was added c.1912 by the first owner, the vinegar tycoon, M.P., philanthropist, and all-round sportsman Mark Hanbury Beaufoy (1854-1922). His son sold off the estate in 1930. The 9-Hole Golf Course was probably carved out of acreage originally reserved for pheasant shooting. Subsequently Coombe House was occupied by USAAF bomber crews for R & R during World War Two, and after 1945 by the Sisters of The Institute of the Blessed Virgin Mary who operated an independent Girls’ School until its closure in 2020.

Presumably different postcards of various views could be inserted into this generic poster, with the distance altered to suit.

Welcome to Shaftesbury is on show in Exhibition Space ‘A’ outside the Museum Library until the end of the season in late October. Like all our displays, it is free to view every day between 10.30 and 4.30.

‘Young Elizabeth: Princess. Prisoner. Queen’ as told by the author

Dr Nicola Tallis is fast emerging as one of Britain’s most popular historians, according to fellow writer Gareth Russell. Her brilliant new study of the early life of Elizabeth I, says the doyenne of Tudor biographers Alison Weir, is an outstanding achievement. The Shaftesbury & District Historical Society is delighted to welcome Nicola to Shaftesbury Town Hall at 7.30p.m. on Tuesday 01 October as the 2024 Teulon Porter Memorial Lecturer. This illustrated talk is free to members and open to the public on payment of £5 at the door.

Dr Nicola Tallis’s latest book on the troubled early years of Elizabeth I was published in February 2024. Photo from https://nicolatallis.com/

Nicola is a rising star in the firmament of Tudor historians. Her PhD thesis was published as ‘All the Queen’s Jewels 1445 -1548: Power, Majesty and Display’. She is speaking on this subject at a sold-out Six Lives Study Day at the National Portrait Gallery on 07 September. (Coincidentally Elizabeth I was born on 07 September in 1533.) After ‘Crown of Blood: The Deadly Inheritance of Lady Jane Grey’ (2016), Nicola raised the profiles of other Tudor women in ‘Elizabeth’s Rival: The Tumultuous Tale of Lettice Knollys, Countess of Leicester’ (2017) and ‘Uncrowned Queen: The Fateful Life of Margaret Beaufort, Tudor Matriarch.’ (2019)

Elizabeth I was 25 when she became Queen in 1558. An awful lot of personal trauma was packed into her early years, starting with the execution of her mother, Anne Boleyn, on 19 May 1536. Elizabeth joined her elder half-sister, Mary (b.1516), in the non-status of officially decreed illegitimacy. Both were much reduced in rank and household, from Princess to mere Lady. Any sympathy Mary might have felt for her younger sibling tended to be crushed by her burning resentment at Henry VIII’s treatment of her mother, Katherine of Aragon, and harassment over her (Mary’s) traditional religious beliefs. Both were blamed squarely on the malign influence of Anne Boleyn. At the beginning of Mary’s reign, when Kentish gentleman Sir Thomas Wyatt raised an unsuccessful rebellion against Mary’s Spanish Marriage to the future King Philip II, Elizabeth found herself in the same Tower of London quarters, contemplating the same fate, as her mother.

Detail of Claude de Jongh’s View of London Bridge in 1632. Original in the Yale Center for British Art

Wyatt had planned to depose Mary and replace her with Elizabeth. If Wyatt had written to her, Elizabeth denied ever having received his letter. Her own ‘Tide Letter’ to Mary, the writing of which delayed Elizabeth’s passage to the Tower beneath the low arches of London Bridge (above), may have saved her from sudden retribution. Elizabeth also knew enough to score out the blank space at the bottom of her letter to prevent any forged additions.

This was not the first time that Elizabeth had to use her quick wits and inner resilience to rebuff bullying by male interrogators. In 1548 she had been part of the household of Henry VIII’s last Queen and widow, Katherine Parr. Katherine was now free to marry Thomas Seymour, uncle of the boy-king Edward VI, and in June 1548 they began residing at Sudeley Castle in Gloucestershire.

The medieval part of Sudeley Castle, granted by the young Edward VI to his uncle, Thomas Seymour, in 1547, probably at the instigation of his other Seymour uncle, Edward, Duke of Somerset. Nicola Tallis was at one time Curator here.

In his will Henry VIII had made provision for advising his son Edward, aged 9 at his father’s death, to be shared by 16 executors. These were all male courtiers, though Mary was named second and Elizabeth third in the line of succession. Within days Edward Seymour subverted the terms of the will by being appointed Lord Protector, and Duke of Somerset. But Somerset’s nemesis was his younger brother, Thomas Seymour, who jealously coveted the post of Governor of the King’s Person. Although made Lord Admiral and given a barony as Lord Seymour of Sudeley, Seymour was not so easily bought off. Handsome, dashing and reckless, his consuming ambition made him a highly disruptive force. (John Guy, The Children of Henry VIII.) Thomas’s behaviour towards the 14 years-old Elizabeth was highly dubious, even by the lax standards of the day. He began to visit her bed-chamber at the crack of dawn. Lady-in-waiting Kat Ashley confessed that if Elizabeth were up, he would bid her good morrow and ask how she did, and strike her upon the back or on the buttocks familiarly … and if she were in her bed, he would open the curtains and bid her good morrow, and make as though he would come at her. Perhaps hoping to curb her husband’s excessive, abusive familiarity, Katherine took part in some of these romps, including a notorious incident in the garden at Hanworth where Elizabeth’s gown was cut to tatters as she was wearing it. I could not do withal, for the queen held me while the Lord Admiral cut it.

St Mary’s Chapel at Sudeley is the burial place of Katherine Parr. She died 05 September 1548 of puerperal fever six days after giving birth to her only child.

In May 1548, amid a rising tide of scurrilous gossip about the relationship between her errant husband and Elizabeth, Katherine sent the teenager to live with the Denny household. Within months, Katherine, who had been widowed three times, died of an infection sustained in childbirth. She was 36. Elizabeth learned from all these experiences. Thomas, thwarted in his schemes to groom Elizabeth, and to pitch a marriage to Mary, was arrested in January 1549 while trying to seize the person of the King. These were treasonous activities for which he was executed in March 1549. Sir Robert Tyrwhit, sent by Somerset to establish the extent of Elizabeth’s involvement, reported somewhat shamefacedly: I do assure your grace she hath a very good wit, and nothing is gotten of her, but by great policy. Legend has it that when in 1553 Elizabeth was released, reluctantly, by her sister from the Tower into house arrest at Woodstock, she used a diamond to etch into a window pane Much suspected of me. Nothing proved can be.

Facsimile of “Alfred Ordered Me Made” Masterpiece Returns To Gold Hill Museum

The ninth century Alfred Jewel was unearthed by the ploughing of a field at North Petherton, Somerset, in 1693. It was given to the University of Oxford in 1718 and is now one of the Ashmolean Museum’s most prized treasures. North Petherton lies between Bridgwater and Taunton, six miles from King Alfred’s reedy Athelney hideaway in the marshes of the Somerset Levels. Here c.878 the refugee Alfred allegedly “burned the cakes” while planning a successful Saxon counter-attack on the marauding Vikings. Part of his strategy was to build a network of fortified “burhs”, of which hilltop Shaftesbury was one.

A number of replica Alfred Jewels were made in 1901 to mark the Millennium of Alfred’s death (actually in 899). In 1964 a replica was presented to Gold Hill Museum by Major Meyrick-Jones of Layton House, Layton Lane, Shaftesbury. As Dave Hardiman writes in a well-researched article in the most recent Byzant magazine: The accession book notes that the replica had an “Ashmolean look about it”. With King Alfred’s great association with Shaftesbury due to his foundation of the Abbey and installation of his daughter as the first Abbess, the replica jewel was proudly displayed for some 20 years until, sadly it disappeared, believed stolen, and has never been recovered. (Security was tightened as a result of the theft).

King Alfred and daughter, first Abbess of Shaftesburry
Alfred portrayed in Room 1 with daughter Ethelgiva, said by Asser to be the first Abbess of Shaftesbury

In 2015 the present writer queued for an hour at the Museum of Somerset in Taunton to snatch a brief and not very satisfactory look at the original Alfred Jewel while it was on temporary loan. Now, thanks to the generosity of S&DHS member Phil Proctor, you can enjoy a much more leisurely and rewarding inspection, for free, in Room 1 of a high quality replica. Phil was inspired by Dave’s article to buy a replacement for the stolen piece and donate it to us. This follows his kind gift last year of a Shaftesbury-made longcase clock.

Side view of the original Alfred Jewel showing part of the “Alfred ordered me to be made” inscription. Photo by Giles Watson (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic Licence)

The Ashmolean Museum’s online description begins: The Alfred Jewel is a masterpiece of goldsmith’s work formed around a tear-shaped slice of rock crystal. Its inscription: AELFRED MEC HEHT GEWYRCAN – ‘Alfred ordered me to be made’ – connects the jewel with King Alfred the Great (r. 871–899) making it among the most significant of royal relics. Other contextual evidence tends to strengthen the identification with Alfred. Apart from proving his military prowess by victories over the Danes, Alfred was a considerable scholar and believed passionately in the merits of Christian education. In the Preface to his translation from Latin to Old English of Pope Gregory’s Pastoral Care he writes: When I reflected on all this, I recollected how – before everything was ransacked and burned – the churches throughout England stood filled with treasures and books. Similarly, there was a great multitude of those serving God. And they derived very little benefit from these books, because they understood nothing of them, since they were not written in their own language.

Accordingly Alfred ordered that translations of texts he considered most needful for all to know, should be distributed to churches throughout his kingdom. In the particular case of the Pastoral Care each copy of the (handwritten illuminated) book was to be accompanied by an aestel worth fifty mancuses. And in God’s name I command that no one shall take that aestel from the book, nor the book from the church.

An aestel was a pointer used to follow a line of text in scripture, an aid to reading out loud. Alfred’s aestels were expensive as a mancus was a gold coin worth 30 silver pence, equivalent to a month’s wages for a skilled worker. It is reasonable to assume that the Alfred Jewel is one of six surviving aestels. The functional part of the pointer, made of wood or ivory, would be clamped into the dragon’s mouth at the base of the Jewel. There has been much speculation as to the identity of the enamelled figure: Christ; St Cuthbert of Lindisfarne; Alfred himself? and the symbolism intended. In her recent book Femina: A New History of the Middle Ages, Through the Women Written Out of It Dr. Janina Ramirez suggests that The Alfred Jewel, meant to accompany books that spread wisdom, may depict not sight, as in eyesight, but rather insight; the pursuit of knowledge.

The “pursuit of knowledge” of Shaftesbury’s history is available every day for free until late October at both Gold Hill Museum and Shaftesbury Abbey and Gardens.

Click here to listen to Fontmell Magna native Dave Hardiman, interviewed on the Alfred Daily, describing a forthcoming village Archive Society Exhibition on the theme of the Parish at Work. It’s at Fontmell Village Hall for the weekend starting 26 July 2024.

Hollywood Aerial Stunt – or Real Life Above the Western Front?

In 1915 Dorset Royal Flying Corps pilot Louis Strange fell out of the open cockpit of his single-seat Martinsyde S1 Scout biplane at 8000 feet above northern France. In the middle of a dogfight with a German Aviatik, the ammunition drum on his Lewis machine gun had jammed. When Strange stood up to try and free the magazine, the notoriously unstable Scout flipped over onto its back. With no parachute – not yet issued to British pilots – Strange faced the prospect of a long fall to a certain death, perhaps marginally preferable to being consumed by fire in a more controlled descent, the fate of many airmen.

Considered underpowered even in its day, the Martinsyde S1 had a top speed of 87mph and took 19 minutes to climb to 10,000 feet. It was soon taken out of front-line service, but was not a success as a trainer either, because it was so difficult to fly. Imperial War Museum photo taken in 1914

It’s reasonable to assume that Strange escaped from his predicament, otherwise he wouldn’t be the subject of a fascinating talk by Tony Otton at 2.30p.m. on Tuesday 05 November at Gold Hill Museum. See the whole winter programme of lectures here. In fact Louis Strange was a constant innovator: the first RFC pilot to mount a Lewis gun on his aircraft (and then be ordered to remove it, because of the detrimental effect on the plane’s performance); the first to experiment with dropping home-made petrol bombs by hand on the enemy; and the first to drop footballs on a German-occupied airfield at Lille on Christmas Day 1914. After an inter-war sabbatical from flying, back on the family farm at Spetisbury, Strange at nearly 50 years of age was the last to escape from Merville, France, in 1940 in a Hurricane he’d never flown before, hotly pursued by 6 German Me-109s. There are so many dimensions to this man’s life that it is entirely plausible that he was the role model for Captain W.E. Johns’s fictional air-adventurer Biggles, the hero of nearly 100 books. This talk is one not to be missed. It’s free to members of The Shaftesbury & District Historical Society while seats should be available to non-members from 2.20p.m. on payment of £5 at the door.

Lieutenant Louis Arbon Strange, Dorset Yeomanry and from May 1914 Royal Flying Corps. Strange trained on military aircraft at Upavon Wiltshire. Imperial War Museum photograph

From Private Banker to Aesthetic All-Rounder and Shaper of Stourhead

At 2.30p.m. on 09 April at Gold Hill Museum, the National Trust’s Collections and House Officer at Stourhead, Hannah Severn, will give an illustrated talk on The Life and Work of Sir Richard Colt Hoare (1758-1838): Artist, Antiquarian, and Traveller. While it was the two Henry Hoares, Richard’s great-grandfather and grandfather, who first built the Palladian mansion and then created its magnificent landscape garden, he made significant additions and alterations to both, as well as proving to be an accomplished artist, archaeological pioneer and author of compendious Histories of Wiltshire. In pursuing these interests his life intersected with those of William Beckford and John Rutter, key figures in the history of Shaftesbury and District. The talk is free to members of The S&DHS, and seats should be available from 2.20p.m. for non-members on payment of £3 at the door.

Stourhead House photographed by xlibber (Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic Licence). The central Palladian-style villa built 1721-25 for Henry Hoare I. The wings added by his great-grandson Richard Colt Hoare from 1792, to accommodate (left) a Library and (right) a Picture Gallery.

The money to finance the purchase of the Stourton estate in 1717 came from the profits of Hoare’s Bank, founded in 1672 – early customers were Samuel Pepys and Queen Catherine of Braganza. Not all private banks flourished; many went under at the time of the foundation of the Bank of England in 1694, and in the wake of the share-buying frenzy of the South Sea Bubble in 1720. (The South Sea Company had been granted a monopoly of the supply of African slaves to the islands in the “South Seas” and South America.) Henry Hoare II was determined to separate the finances of the Bank from those of the Stourhead estate, so that the latter would remain in the family if ever the Bank failed (it is still in business). Therefore Richard Colt Hoare inherited Stourhead in 1783, on condition that he severed all connections with the Bank, where he had been working. In the same year he married the lively Hester Lyttelton.

In 1785 Richard’s world, already subject to family tensions over his inheritance, fell apart when Hester died after giving birth to their second child, who did not survive. Within weeks Richard left for an extended Grand Tour of Italy, France and Switzerland, which lasted until 1791. From having been one of the most settled men in the world I am become the most fickle. I hardly know where I shall sleep the next night. (Later) there is so much work for my pencil that I know not when I shall be able to get away.

Sketch of the Pont du Gard Roman Aqueduct by Richard Colt Hoare. Original in the Yale Center for British Art. Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication

Richard filled the shelves of his new Library with bound volumes of sketches and commentaries, plus topographical works on the countries he had visited. He now undertook similar tours of Britain and Ireland. His 1802 exploration followed the interesting and highly curious itinerary of Giraldus Cambrensis through north and south Wales in the year 1188 [with] drawings to illustrate it. Gerald of Wales was an ambitious Norman / Welsh monk who accompanied Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, on a seven-week, 600-mile recruiting campaign for the Third Crusade. Colt Hoare’s translation from the Latin, published in 1806, brought Gerald’s quirky description of Welsh manners and wildlife to a wider audience, and is still an entertaining read. The furnishings of the new Library and Picture Gallery, including the ornate carved frames of massive Old Master paintings, were the work of Thomas Chippendale the Younger.

Stonehenge Trilithon by Timothy Darvill, Antiquity Issue 386. Creative Commons Attribution – Share Alike International 4.0

In January 1797 one of the three standing trilithons at Stonehenge collapsed. William Cunnington was one of the antiquarians attracted to the scene, and began investigating what had been beneath the stones. He probably met Colt Hoare through a mutual friend, William Coxe, Rector of Stourton, and all three were interested in trying to understand the ancient landscape of Wiltshire. Colt Hoare became patron of a team in which Cunnington, Stephen Parker and son John, all from Heytesbury, did most of the digging, and Philip Crocker produced impeccable maps and artwork of their finds. According to Julian Richards Between 1803 and 1810 Cunnington and his team opened 465 barrows in Wiltshire, nearly 200 of them in the area around Stonehenge. (Stonehenge; The story so far Historic England, 2017, p78) Modern archaeologists probably wish that they had not done so, but this was more than mere treasure-hunting, and Colt Hoare published his findings in his multi-part Ancient History of Wiltshire 1810-21. It is still, along with Cunnington’s original notes and correspondence, a valuable resource for today’s students of prehistory. (Richards, p85).

There were even more instalments of The History of Modern Wiltshire, to which he contributed from 1822. Some of this was published by Shaftesbury printer John Rutter, whose Delineations of Fonthill, to which Colt Hoare was an early subscriber, appeared in the wake of Beckford’s sale of Fonthill Abbey in 1822. Colt Hoare had long been interested in what the reclusive Beckford was building and furnishing behind his high stone walls, but was warned off associating with the social pariah. Joseph Farington wrote in his diary for October 1806 that Sir Richard Hoare of Stourhead applied to Mr. Beckford to see the Abbey … the neighbouring gentlemen took such umbrage at it … that a gentleman wrote to Sir Richard in his own name and that of others to demand of him an explanation.

The 17th century Queen who could say “There were three of us in this marriage”

Professor Maria Hayward, Head of History at Southampton University, has been working on the Privy Purse account books of Charles II’s Queen, Catherine of Braganza. (1638-1705) At 2.30p.m. on Tuesday 05 March at Gold Hill Museum, Maria takes time off her busy schedule to share with members of The Shaftesbury & District Historical Society what she has discovered about an under-rated monarch whose legacy is still influencing the British and American ways of life today. This illustrated talk is open to non-members from 2.20p.m. when seats should be available on payment of £3 at the door.

Last season we heard from Paul Cordle in “Escape or Die” how in 1651 the youthful King Charles II, by a mixture of bravado and sheer good fortune, evaded the posses of Parliamentary troopers on his tail from Worcester to Shoreham, where he found a boat for France. In 1660 he was able to return to reclaim his crowns at the Restoration of the Monarchy, having already acquired an habitually decadent life-style and at least one illegitimate son, James Crofts or Scott, future Duke of Monmouth.

During his continental exile Charles had not been impressed by the charms of any potential Protestant brides. The Braganza kingdom of Portugal, however, was keen to secure an ally in its struggle to remain independent of its domineering neighbour Habsburg Spain. A dowry worth £360,000 plus the trading posts of Bombay / Mumbai and Tangier convinced Charles of the merits of a marriage to the Portuguese Infanta, Catherine of Braganza. While Tangier proved a dubious asset, requiring constant expenditure on its defences, Bombay was to become a jewel in the crown of British India. Trading rights in Brazil and the Portuguese East Indies gave access to lucrative colonial markets, including those for slaves.

When a seasick Catherine landed at Portsmouth in May 1662, her first request was for a cup of tea. This quintessential British beverage was then a novelty, first served in a London coffee house in 1657, and promoted for its health benefits. (Boiling the polluted water of the day was a good idea.) In 1658 tea was advertised as That Excellent and by all Physicians approved China drink, called by the Chinese Tcha, by other nations Tay alias Tee. The diarist Samuel Pepys first mentions drinking it in September 1660. Catherine’s preference for tea and its introduction as a standard refreshment at Court functions helped establish tea-drinking as a fashionable activity, initially for the wealthy as tea was much more expensive than coffee.

This 1661 etching by Hollar shows Catherine of Braganza with a single lock of hair looped over the forehead in the Portuguese fashion. This and the continued wearing of farthingales to extend the width of her ladies’ dresses at the hips attracted negative comments from English observers in 1662. Later, writes Jenny Uglow, Catherine came to really like the light English dresses with their revealing bodices, and enjoyed dressing in breeches which showed off her legs. Original in the Metropolitan Museum of New York.

Something else recorded enthusiastically by Pepys was the King’s dalliance with a favourite mistress, Barbara Palmer, Countess of Castlemaine. At the time of Catherine’s arrival, Barbara was pregnant with one of five children acknowledged by Charles. She had already persuaded the King to secure her appointment as a Lady of the Queen’s Bedchamber. On 21 May Pepys noted walking into Whitehall garden; and in the privy Garden saw the finest smocks and linen petticoats of my Lady Castlemaynes, laced with rich lace at the bottomes, that ever I sawe; and did me good to look upon themthe King dined at my Lady Castlemayne, and supped every day and night the last week. And the night that the bonefires were made for joy of the Queenes arrivall, the King was there, but there was no fire at her door.

Predictably this ménage a trois provoked some furious scenes. The Lord Chancellor, Edward Hyde Earl of Clarendon (born in Dinton), encouraged the Queen to resist the appointment. She struck the name of Castlemaine from the list, and fainted when the two were introduced. The King made it plain that he would not back down under any circumstances: I am resolved to go through with this matter, let what will come on it … If you desire to have the continuance of my friendship, meddle no more with this business … And whosoever I find to be my Lady Castlemaine’s enemy in this matter, I do promise upon my word to be his enemy as long as I live.

Eventually Catherine decided on tactics of conciliation, rather than confrontation. (Uglow) Barbara was a Lady of the Bedchamber until 1673, by which time she had been supplanted in Charles’s affections by Louise de Keroualle, Duchess of Portsmouth. Three illegitimate sons – Charles (b 1662), Henry (1663) and George (1665) – were all given the surname Fitzroy, confirming their royal parentage. Sadly Catherine’s three pregnancies all miscarried.

Charles did show some respect and affection for his Queen at the time of the Popish Plot in 1678. This was the wildest conspiracy theory of the age, a farrago of lies and pure invention which fed on contemporary anti-Catholic prejudices and fears of a future Catholic dynasty should a childless Charles be succeeded by his brother James, a Catholic convert. Members of Catherine’s Portuguese household were accused of plotting to kill the King. The most notorious liar, Titus Oates, even accused Catherine of scheming to poison her husband. Charles was present in person to tear holes in Oates’s fantasies, but it made little impression on the Protestant public, or on Exclusionist Whig politicians like Anthony Ashley-Cooper, first Earl of Shaftesbury, who would know it was all rubbish but who exploited the furore to try to alter the Succession. As Shaftesbury said later: I will not say who started the Game, but I am sure I had the full hunting of it.

St Giles House, built by the first Earl of Shaftesbury
St Giles House, built by the first Earl of Shaftesbury (1621-83)

The royal brothers referred contemptuously to the diminutive Shaftesbury as little sincerity – he had changed sides during the Civil Wars, and from supporter of the King to critic in the 1670s – but he was consistent in wishing to retain the role of Parliament in government. He suspected that both brothers were envious of the absolute power exercised in France by Louis XIV and would rule autocratically in Britain if they could. Repeatedly during the Exclusion crisis Shaftesbury urged the King to divorce Queen Catherine and marry a Protestant princess or declare Monmouth to be his legitimate heir. Charles however steadfastly maintained that the Queen could never do anything wicked, and it would be a horrible thing to abandon her.

So Catherine of Braganza’s legacy arguably includes the name of one of New York’s Boroughs; the foundation of British India; the popularisation of tea-drinking; trouser-wearing for women; and quite unintentionally, the beginnings of a political party (the Whigs) and the party system. In 1685, when Charles was on his deathbed, Catherine sent a message to beg his pardon if she had offended him in all her life, to which he replied: Alas, poor woman! She ask my pardon? I beg hers with all my heart.

A Turn of the Century Lady Photographer – and More

Members of the Shaftesbury & District Historical Society will be presenting their own historical findings to the informal setting of a Tea and Talks event at Gold Hill Museum at 2.30p.m. on Tuesday 06 February. Among the proposed topics are photographs by Elizabeth Upfield (1854-1903); the Abbess of Shaftesbury’s Farmhouses in the Nadder Valley; and local Sheep Washes. All will be illustrated and promise to shed new light on aspects of local history. Non-members are welcome when seats are available after 2.20p.m. Please be prepared to make a donation towards the cost of refreshments.

Claire Ryley and Ann Symons are well known locally for their presentations of images from the Museum’s (Albert) Tyler Collection. They have begun to identify an increasing number of photographs taken by a female contemporary, Elizabeth Upfield. Research, Ann writes, has established that Mrs Upfield was born Elizabeth Frances Hale in 1854 in Farlington, Hampshire. She became a dressmaker and milliner. In 1882 she married James Hooper, a draper with a shop in Shaftesbury High Street. James died leaving her with 3 young children. She married Albert Upfield in 1898. They continued to run the shop as “drapers and milliners” in the High Street. It was listed in the 1903 Kelly’s Directory as: “New Photographic Studio (all communications & invoices to be addressed to E.F. Upfield, proprietress), High Street.In the same year Elizabeth Frances Upfield died on 7th August and was buried at Holy Trinity Church.

The image above is of a print in an E.F. Upfield mount. It shows the town en fete, possibly for the Prince of Wales’s seven-minute-long royal visit on 21 October 1899. But there were other celebratory occasions at the turn of the century.

Martin Shallcross will cast a farmer’s eye over evidence of the Abbess of Shaftesbury’s Farmhouses in the Nadder Valley. Perhaps the best known example is Place Farm Tisbury with its spectacular Tithe Barn. Alan Carter brings his vet’s eye to the evidence of local Sheep Washes.

The Tithe Barn at Place Farm Tisbury, built by the Abbess of Shaftesbury, possibly in the 13th century. Currently leased from the Fonthill Estate by Messums West

Restored “Made in Shaftesbury” Cheese Press Gift to Museum

A substantial piece of Shaftesbury’s industrial past has been restored and very kindly donated to Gold Hill Museum by a descendant of the Farris family at whose Belle Vue Iron Works it was first manufactured. John Farris and Sons were agricultural engineers renowned for their production of steam traction engines, road rollers, shepherds’ and road menders’ huts, ploughs, chaff-cutters and other agricultural machinery. Donor Dan Wood’s grandmother was the daughter of Stanley Farris, grandson of John, who was running the firm at the time of its closure in 1975. Dan acquired the redundant cheese press more than a decade ago after it had been neglected and left outside in the elements. It was unusual in that the Farris name and Shaftesbury were clearly visible in the casting, and (from our point of view) it was small enough to put on display.

Detail of Farris cheese press kindly donated by Dan Wood

Dan writes: There was a broken casting which I repaired; the wooden base (which I believe might be elm) was soft and had suffered worm damage so I treated this and painted many coats of yacht varnish to soak in and protect the wood. I found multiple different paint colours on the metal parts: green, turquoise, a gold colour and a blue. The blue was clearly the most recent and I couldn’t tell or find out what colour it should have been so went with BS220 Olive Green which I know was used in the early 1900’s for various machinery. Once I restored and assembled it I realised it took a lot of room and wasn’t much use being only me who could appreciate it. Also, I have seen others made by Farris but it seems rare to have the Farris name and Shaftesbury in the casting so I realised it would look good in the museum. We have to agree with Dan; the restored cheese press can be seen In Room 2 Farming Life when we open to the public from 10 to 18 February inclusive for Shaftesbury Snowdrops, and for the main season every day from Saturday 23 March.

Since we couldn’t possibly accommodate a full-size steam traction engine, we have long been pleased to have on loan from the Farris family a model engine “Kitty” built over three years by the second son of John, William. Dated 1897, “Kitty” has a sovereign mounted in the smoke-box door, and is superbly displayed in Room 4 Life in the Town. Until 1975 “Kitty” was on show in the engineers’ office in Victoria Street. Dan recalls seeing the model in a glass case in Stanley’s living room.

“Kitty” model steam traction engine built over three years by William Farris, dated 1897. Kindly loaned by the Farris family. Photographed in 2023 by Alan Booth

The theme of Gold Hill Museum’s main temporary exhibition for 2024 is “Made in Shaftesbury”. We would welcome examples of items made in Shaftesbury & District for temporary loan, or simply information about them for our archives. If you can contribute, please contact us via display@goldhillmuseum.org.uk